Sailing North on the Marco Polo Part 2
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In the second instalment of his onboard diary, Cruise News editor Sam Ballard describes his journey to the Faroe Islands with Cruise & Maritime Voyages…
Throughout passenger shipping there are undoubtedly splits within the community which define and contribute to such a layered a diverse product. Small ships or big ships for instance? Or sail ships? Rivers or oceans? All of these camps have their own die-hard fan base whose passengers will ardently defend their particular favourite to the bitter end – or at least until they get quite angry. However, one of the more interesting demographics I have encountered are those passengers who love to sail on older ships. And when you’re onboard an older vessel it is quite easy to see why.
While sailing between Leith and the Faroe Islands there was a gentleman onboard who explained how he’d come all the way from Canada to see the Marco Polo in person. It struck me as odd and slightly eccentric that someone would come halfway round the world to see a vessel that was approaching its fiftieth birthday. However, therein lies the fascination.
The Marco Polo was one of a group of ships which started sailing for a Soviet Union clientele shortly after the Cold War. To feel part of that history is something to appreciate. Especially seeing as such ships are rapidly being replaced by newer fleets and the fast approaching introduction of emission rules governing ships will put pay to many more (although it’s worth noting the Marco Polo will survive the cull). The Marco Polo, or Alexandr Pushin as it was previously known, has seen more of the world than few can imagine possible. It has survived the demise of the Soviet Union – and will continue sailing long into the future. For as long as people look at the Cruise & Maritime vessel and comment that it: “Looks like a proper ship”, there will be a market for older ships and a market for this unique brand of cruising.
However, back to the cruise.
We pulled into Torshavn, the capital of the Faroe Islands, at about 9:00am local time. The settlement is the largest town on the islands and reportedly, at 13,000 people, the smallest capital in the world. I learned that despite being an independent state, the country came under the sovereignty of Denmark. It brought home a confession: prior to my visit to the islands my knowledge of the Faroes was limited. In fact, it was non-existent.
We were met by our local tour guide, John Eysturoy on the quayside by the Marco Polo and taken off on a guided tour of the entire region. As soon as we left the small urban area of the port, the region spread out in front of us. The dramatic landscape we encountered on our tour of the Faroe Islands was like nothing I have ever experienced. The only country comparable as far as I can imagine is New Zealand. Huge mountains, waterfalls and breathtaking valleys are all part of a backdrop which would have looked more at home on the big screen. The fact that none of it was expected made it all the more spectacular. I don’t think anyone within our group could have foreseen the beauty of the Faroe Islands – I certainly didn’t – and everyone that came back onboard would have recommended visiting them afterwards.
The country’s major export historically has been fish and lamb – the latter of which outnumber the human residents by a wide margin and run wild throughout the hills. Fishing is the far more dangerous pastime of the Farores and churches and monuments dot the region, dedicated to either the memory of those who have been lost to the Atlantic Ocean or for those who sought higher comfort when their loved ones were away. Most churches, which are of the Lutheran sect, have a ship adorned somewhere inside, they are sparsely decorated and can’t have undergone much change since they were built in the 1800s. Now, as then, communities will get together to clean the churches and until recently they’ve never been locked. For a region so sparsely populated there is a real sense of togetherness – brought on by the land’s remote nature.
The tour of the Faroe Islands has been one of the most unique experiences I have ever had on a cruise shore excursion. It was well thought out, informative and at times rather hairy travelling around certain treacherous mountain passes! It all came together to complete the day.
A selection of the images are available on our Facebook page here.
Tomorrow we go to Stornoway.
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