An Alsatian journey on the Panache
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To many industry experts, the rise of river cruising comes as small surprise. The amount of people who were looking for an alternative to ocean cruising – and were willing to pay for a luxury product – meant that it has long held the possibilities it is now exploiting. However, perhaps a less foreseen fallout from the rise has been the increase of niche sector industries like canal cruises. If river cruising is a far different beast to ocean, then how different is canal to river? Lynn Houghton went along for Cruise News to find out more.
There is something intrinsically relaxing about being on a vessel and meandering down an historic waterway like a canal at a leisurely pace. As the countryside moves past slowly and steadfastly, it harks back to an era when this was the normal pace of life. For those looking to enjoy scenery but also like being taken along from destination to destination without packing and unpacking – and while eating gourmet food along the way – a hotel barge might just be the right trip.
For many, the idea of taking a holiday on a luxury barge in a narrow canal might seem confining. But I discovered that because you can get off at any of the dozens of locks along the way and then walk, ride a bike or indulge in another activity before returning to the vessel, it means that you never feel hemmed in as you might with being at sea on a cruise liner.
When I first heard the term ‘luxury barge’, the phrase seemed a bit ludicrous. I was reminded of oxymorons such as ‘jumbo shrimp’. How can a barge be luxurious? I would soon find out.
Our Dutch hotel barge, Panache, is docked at Parc d’etoiles near the town centre of Strasbourg. My first impressions were good as the Panache is tidy, clean and freshly painted. The barge is quite large at 128 feet long and has a classic design with two decks. On the upper deck is a large outdoor space with table and chairs for eating or sitting and watching the world go by. This is also where the bikes are kept. Going down a few steps to the inside, on the same deck, there is a window enclosed salon (living room) adjoined by a sizeable dining room. Alongside this is the kitchen, which is inaccessible to guests. I was pleased to find there is WiFi on board and it is comfortable lounging on the modular settee if you fancy reading a book and relaxing.
The next deck down, at water level, are six double cabins kitted out with good sized bathrooms. They have air-conditioning but this worked less efficiently than it could have. I also found not being able to open my window to let in fresh air annoying but we were comfortable enough. I can’t say I was completely satisfied with the quality of the bedding but was assured these are being replaced. The bathroom has double sinks and the shower does have massage jets but it didn’t drain properly. A member of staff had to unclog it on one occasion.
Once settled in, our voyage through the Alsatian countryside is incredibly tranquil. This constantly moving countryside is a backdrop that enhances the gourmet food and wine experience on board. We have our very own French master chef and every meal is excellent. Breakfast is a buffet that often features fresh bread and patisseries from the local baker. At lunch and dinner there are at least two wines served to match various dishes. As this is the Alsace, there are regional specialities to try such as Medallions of Veal with a Girolles and Truffle Sauce, Roasted Duck a l’Alsacienne, Magret de Canard aux Mirabelles, Le Baeckeoffe d’Alsace and Crepes Suzette with Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream. The wines cover every region of France and are superb. There are also regional spirits and beers to add to the fun in a serve-yourself bar in the living room area.
While we were travelling I was always aware of the crew working. In fact, I really wanted to join in. The second in command was a lady deck hand that spent most of her time mooring and unmooring so she is constantly working with ropes. Our captain, Willy, often had tricky manoeuvring to do with tunnels being the most challenging. It was quite a technical feat to steer our barge into what was an enormous container. The Arzviller barge elevator then literally lifted the entire barge half way up a mountain-side. By doing this, we avoided a section of the canal with over a dozen locks that would take a whole extra day of navigation. A really interesting experience.
Verdict
Though this might not be everyone’s idea of luxury, it is a fascinating way to see and enjoy the countryside in style. I would say ‘Barge’ your way on and give it a go. Prices for a six-night cruise aboard the 12 passenger hotel barge Panache are from GBP2,990 per person in a twin/double en suite cabin, including all meals, wines, an open bar, excursions and local transfers. Full boat charters are also available.
Call European Waterways: +44 (0)1753 598555 or visit www.gobarging.com
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